As I've already had my allowed Bunnings trip for this week, looks like it's the Dynabolt option. How long is the lever arm? Dyna Bolts Vs Screw Bolt I need to secure a Pine Brearer to a brick wall. I'm retired now, but I worked at a Uni as a Tech in a Lab and we did a consultancy on screw in bolts about 10 years ago.I would recommend them every time as the results were outstanding.Not one failed, they eventually pulled a piece out of the concrete, and this was way past the maximum design loading.One thing worth noting is that the hole size is important, so we found good reults were obtained by drilling an undersize hole and then redrilling the hole to the correct size as this eiminated a lot drilling wobble by the installer.Also found installation improves if the bolt is screwed in about halfway then backed out then reinserted and screwed down tight.Just use a quality brand as they are all acceptable.For external use hot dipped galvanised ( grey colour) are preferred to the cadmium gold passivated type. 80 100 mm from the slab edge should be fine, use the designed fixing at the required spacing this will ensure that the shed doesn't get sucked up in an uplift of wind. When I discovered ankascrews I thought my xmas 's had all come as well - but the heads can be under so much stored tension, they either break completely or become missiles and fly off. So to fix a safe, for instance, you need multiple anchors positioned at right angles in the structure. (I could only get a few threads in by hand before I felt I was going to break either my socket or my arm, now I understand the reference to rattle guns. And whats the best size to use? Our Website Terms Except in high vibration situations (machinery fixed down to concrete slabs for example), ankascrews can work themselves loose. Im a fan of Chemset so that sounds good. Ive seen this previous post, (https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Outdoor/How-to-connect-ledger-board-to-house/m-p/86830#M1258) but my question is: Should I use the Ramset Ankascrews or Dynabolt sleeve anchors to attach it!? Just be careful not to over tighten them. That being said, regardless of which anchor you use, how are you going to stop the thief just unbolting the safe? I've used them to hold quite a long swinging gate attached to house brick and I can stand on the gate without the bolt budging, so maybe they are okay. You did right by clearing the debris from the hole, it's very important, but there is a knack for inserting the dynabolt that a lot of folk don't realise, and so they get it stuck halfway in, as you did. I hate using the things, as I have had mixed success with getting them to fit snugly all the way in before tightening. . (not that I am suggesting anything for this application, just that I'd not do them by hand if could avoid it). Likewise. We have worked closely with our sister company ramsetreid, who manufacture the AnkaScrew, to ensure that our technical guidance is fully up to date and compliant with the latest codes and standards. Thread: Which anchor fixture for securing a safe? ), Should work fine,Only drama would be the condition of concrete,Also what's the thickness of the ring beam on the pool , and the distance between fixings on the cleats to the pool, Pool ring beam is 160mm thick, and cleat holes on each side of the post are 175mm apart. Choose whether you want a 2D or 3D model - all objects include detailed technical data, such as size, material, Hilti product numbers, material information. I always use mechanical anchors on brick work and always through the mortar - I use a 12mm diameter anchor and attach it on the vertical mortar joint (thus avoiding any frog/extrusions on the bricks) - 12mm is always wider than the mortar, so drills slightly into the brick on either side, and I use an anchor that goes a minimum of 2/3rds of the depth of the brick wall. As they have a really course thread you can strip the hole surprisingly easily, Select to expand quotemitchbat saidI've used them a heap of times for fixing signage frames to masonry walls. This creates a strong connection, but the expansion force can cause the concrete to blow out if they are used too close to an edge. Twist it and cut a thread into the side of the bolt and then try to lever it out. Funny thing is I prefer them too most people when they drill for Dynablots dont drill the hole deep enough so when you have to remove you have to grind the things off. Even with only 30mm of a 100mm bolt installed I couldn't lever it out the slightest amount . They may perform well below their stated capacity if the holes are not cleaned properly, the holes are too wet, or the bolt is not inserted with the correct procedure. DynaBolt Plus Sleeve Anchors The DynaBolt Plus Sleeve Anchor is a patented expansion anchor with an integrated pull-down section for improved fixture clamping. Is this a consideration with the 80 100 mm edge and the Dynabolts? This is the method to use, assuming you have drilled the right sized hole. Ramset Ankascrew vs. Dynabolt sleeve anchor for deck ledger to brick? However, the grooves are actually there Join the Bunnings Workshop community today to ask questions and get advice. 14 Jan 2016 10:43AM. Posts are 75mm sq x 3mm thick. I know how annoying it is to get one stuck part way in, but I quickly learned how to avoid that problem and this method is the way to do it. Privacy Policy Or bolts with a good sized head & washer set in the concrete, or threaded rod bent over to have a secure for on the concrete. so we found good reults were obtained by drilling an undersize hole and then redrilling the hole to the correct size as this eiminated a lot drilling wobble by the installer. Patented "pull-down" expansion sleeve closes gaps of up to 5mm providing enhanced security. Fasteners every 600mm would be sufficient. All rights reserved. If you are considering bolting straight to the edge though - check out the chemset specifications & installation instructions rather than ask what a good clearance is here. Request for Quotation. Features. If it needs to be removable and able to be reinstated . Add to Cart . I have a manual tube bender on a post fitted to the floor of the workshop with 4 ankascrews and even with years of 1 or 2 guys swinging on it daily, it hasn't moved at all, that sold me on the safe fixing. It seems that for our particular situation, screw-in anchors would have sufficed. Also an over the top idea, but just incase you didn't know it was an option, If you were really worried about ankascrews pull out strength, and end up having trouble with the dynabolts at the edge of the slab you could always chemset in some threaded rod instead and bolt it down. 10mm Dynabolts will be fine just dont do them up too tight, but 100mm from the edge is more than plenty. It's all in aluminium. View Products Heavy-Duty Tapcon+ Heavy-Duty Tapcon+ all-in-one substrate screw anchors provide heavy-duty holding power in the most demanding conditions. I'm about to do a slab for a small garden shed on the weekend (ABSCO 1.52x0.78) the recommendation for the slab size from the site selling them was to make the slab 100mm bigger each way (1.62x0.88). Just be careful not to over tighten them. The AnkaScrew Screw-In Anchor is a totally removable, medium duty, rotation setting, thread forming anchor, ideal for either temporary or permanent anchoring into substrates such as concrete, brick, hollow brick or block. More items related to this product. What's everyone's take on dyna bolts into cruddy brickwork? So it seems they are comparable, as long of course the hole for the Ankascrew is true. They are standard bolts fitted into a sleeve. With either option, you'll want the fixing at least 1/2 to 3/4 the way into the depth of the brick. Rather than find fault in your idea - a suggestion maybe? eBay Product ID (ePID) 6011263146. Description. We have lodged a claim with hbc but haven't heard anything back. Hammer in the sleeve anchor through the item you'd like to fix into the base substrate (mostly concrete). Hi there, Im building a low deck that will sit on short posts (the whole backyard is brick-courtyard with sandstone underneath so will be digging and setting posts in concrete (removing bricks). This will likely never happen when fixing into masonry as you would always drill the pilot hole the same diameter as the sleeve but we thought we'd over exaggerate it slightly so its a little easier to visualise. The force applied in your case is pulling the screw straight out of the hole, for this I feel these are inadequate. Fully assembled "through fixture" anchor eliminates marking out and re-positioning of fixtures. Just a quick one also - if you're investing $$$ in what is legally called a 'Pool Barrier', make sure that it's up to AS & BCA spec (including the practice notes that came out over the last couple of years - although they may only be Vic specific). (I could only get a few threads in by hand before I felt I was going to break either my socket or my arm, now I understand the reference to rattle guns. By combining Ramset AnkaScrews and Pryda washers, we supply a system solution that is simple for carpenters to install and makes it easy for builders to ensure the wall to slab connection does not become a weak link that undermines the rest of the build. either screw in or dyna. Explore Hilti's BIM/CAD Library to: Search for an object by name or by the type of object - such as anchors, direct fastenings, firestop systems, modular support systems. This is your problem. The concrete was only poured 8 days ago. Cordless grinder anyone . Select to expand quoteHarrow said..Might be worth mentioning that my new aluminium fence is replacing a timber one of the exact same dimensions, (but a lot heavier), that has been in place for the last 30 years and was installed in the exact same manner to the edge of the pool with dynabolts, except they are all rusted and I can't get them out, or even undo them. Finished (almost - one panel to go). "There is no expedient to which a man will not resort to avoid the real labor of thinking. SKU# ..137494 $ 73. If you need to move it, the bolt screws out, leaving an empty hole with no remaining metal parts to grind down. I've used these and they are absoluty mickey mouse. Huge difference between must, should, shall, In concrete all6 8 10 12 mm ankascrews work fine but in brickwork that could be a shade brittle or crumbly , the small diameter ankasrews tend to b more reliable. Or do the brackets space the holes far enough away from the edge? Auto-suggest helps you quickly narrow down your search results by suggesting possible matches as you type. funny that eh firstguns i said i was being the devils advocate . 2. Sleeve anchors are what we call mechanical expansion fasteners. The grooves are non-slip. The AnkaScrew Screw-In Anchor is a totally removable thread forming anchor that is particularly well suited to close-to-edge/anchor fixing. Tech link for Dynabolt https://admin.ramset.mmginteractive.com.au/Resources/Library/rsc288_2011071893038.pdf, Techlink for Ankascrew https://admin.ramset.mmginteractive.com.au/Resources/Library/rsc287_20120209142945.pdf. Its not just about the bolt. The fence is 1.8 meters high above the pool. Ring them and youll get better advice than us. Sleeve anchors don't grip very well if the bricks are hollow, and the Chemset is more likely to fill the voids. Is there a crawl space under the house where you can locate the rear side of the floor bearers? My opinion is the concrete screws you propose are inadequate. We are in the process of doing an extension of our small double brick house, and due to the age of the house (appears to be 1960's) and change of window placement etc, Hi, And would 60mm be enough? These garden sheds usually have an upturned steel 'u' channel at the bottom holding the wall sheets together. UltraFix Plus is a multi-purpose polyester adhesive for anchoring threaded studs and starter bars in solid and hollow substrates. You will be fine, if in doubt don't do the dyna bolt up very tight, you can always nip then up in a month's time.The drilling will not cause any problems, it would only be the pressure caused by the dyna bolt that may be a very small risk, given that you are not right on the edge, I don't think there is too much risk though. use the designed fixing at the required spacing. The AnkaScrew Screw-In Anchor is a totally removable, medium duty, rotation setting, thread forming anchor, ideal for either temporary or permanent anchoring into substrates such as concrete, brick, hollow brick or block. Workshop is a friendly place to learn, get ideas and find inspiration for your home improvement projects. Popular Masonry Anchors Flush Head Sleeve Anchors Sleeve Anchors Wedge Anchors All other Masonry Anchors Guess I can do that with a stainless stud so I don't need to worry about it rusting? Make sure you get the AnkaScrew with the WERCS thread. Mechanical anchors are not an option. So there will be repetitive pulling force, and that's what concerned me about them possibly working loose. "If you need a machine today and don't buy it, tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it. there are a few brands of chemsets that use a standard silicon type gun to apply the mix but be ready to the lot in one go.Most of my experience is with tilt panels and though at times I have to fix to the edge of a panel it's not fun with anything bar 6-8mm fixings (nylocks) The self threading anchors do put outwards pressure on the hole when installing, this will be your enemy. I wouldn't be happy fixing an expansion type anchor 80mm from the edge of a slab, and definitely not from the edge of a pool ring beam that has all kinds of live loads on it.I'm not sure why you want it removable? This is accepted practice when fixing to a wall of hollow bricks. ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/312/WERCS-AnkaScrew-Screw-In-Anchors, ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/77/RamPlug-Nylon-Frame-Anchors. Just wondering if they work loose or any other problems to be aware of? 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Out of the brick Join the Bunnings Workshop community today to ask questions and get....